The road arrived in 2021 and the change since has been smaller than anyone expected. There are two hotels on ninety miles of coast, both of them modest, and a handful of houses that are rented by word of mouth.
What there is instead is water, a fishing fleet that still works, and a rhythm to the day that has not been adjusted for visitors. Dinner is at eight because that is when the boats are in, not because someone decided it was atmospheric.
It will not stay this way. It never does. But the constraints here are physical rather than regulatory — there is very little flat ground, and almost no fresh water — which tends to slow things down more effectively than any planning board.
