There is no printed menu because there cannot be one. What arrives at seven in the morning from four farms within an hour of the restaurant determines what will be served at seven that night, and the kitchen has roughly nine hours to figure it out.
This is a difficult way to run a business and an unusually good way to cook. The dishes are short — three or four elements, rarely more — because there is no time to hide anything behind technique.
Diners are told what to expect when they book, which is: nothing specific. A surprising number of them come back weekly.


