On September 11, Veronica Leoni presented the Calvin Klein Collection for Spring 2027 at the Terminal Warehouse, the brick landmark built in 1891, according to parent company PVH. Her theme was the one she has worked on since arriving at the house: American minimalism. This season she narrowed it further. 10 Magazine reports that menswear was left out of the show so the focus stayed entirely on women.
Nothing in between
Leoni explained the idea in a statement quoted by 10 Magazine:
“Calvin drew from that and turned it toward the body. I turn it toward the woman inside it. My minimalism begins there, in the relation between design and a body, with nothing in between. Take everything away. What is left is desire.”
The clothes followed that brief. According to PVH, the collection was built on basics: coats, shirts, tailoring, trousers, pencil skirts and slips. Proportions ran longer and narrower, with the waist pulled in. The fabrics were cotton, lightweight wool, silk knit and silk cady, plus denim, leather and laser-cut suede.
What walked
- Slim three-button cotton suits worn as easily as T-shirts, next to broader-shouldered jackets for layering, as described in the show notes republished by FashionUnited.
- An opening black column dress draped at the back. 10 Magazine‘s Diana Tsui said it suggested a modern Carolyn Bessette Kennedy.
- Slip dresses and T-shirt dresses lengthened and cut on the bias into full evening gowns, which 10 Magazine said “felt like pure Calvin himself, reimagined.”
- Color-blocked baseball shirts and very fine silk knit tees.
- Turtlenecks with slim pencil skirts, and slouchy jeans under contrasting jackets.
The colors started from white and black. Scarlet, bright yellow, royal blue, cherry and light citron broke in, along with a geometric check that the brand says came from Georgia O’Keeffe’s wardrobe. Accessories stayed spare: metal headbands, pointed scarves and triangular bags, some structured and some slouchy, which the brand compared to origami.
The room
Three floor sculptures by Walter De Maria lined the runway. Kid Harpoon arranged the soundtrack, which featured Laurie Anderson and Solange, PVH said. The guest list included Rosalía, Teyana Taylor, Tate McRae, Sadie Sink, Solange, Pamela Anderson, Gemma Chan and Katie Holmes. 10 Magazine and PVH both name several of them.
Why it matters
10 Magazine notes that Leoni is about a year and a half into the job. Many designers use that point in a tenure to widen their range. Leoni did the opposite and cut back. In IOM’s view, the choice is telling. Her Calvin Klein is less about logos and nostalgia than about cut, fabric and how a garment sits on the body. Dropping menswear from the show makes that argument sharper, though it gives up some breadth. Next season should show whether the tighter focus lasts.
See all sources
- Calvin Klein Collection by Veronica Leoni Spring 2027 Runway Show Presented in New York City, PVH Corp., 2026-09-12
- Calvin Klein Spring 2027: American Minimalism Reimagined, 10 Magazine USA, 2026-09-12
- Calvin Klein Collection continues its ‘American minimalism’ exploration for spring 2027, FashionUnited (Press Club), 2026-09-14
Lead image: illustrative photo by Diana Yıldırım on Unsplash.
