The center is a museum of itself, and there is nothing wrong with that — the buildings are extraordinary and the crowds have earned their reason for being there. But two stops out in almost any direction, the city stops performing.
Start north, where the market opens at six and is finished by ten. Walk the canal instead of taking the tram. Eat where the menu is handwritten and does not appear anywhere online.
The second day belongs to the east side, which twenty years ago was industrial and is now the only part of the city where the average age is under forty.
